Spring tune up time..

Originally posted by "dave in banff" on the old Athletic Progression forum.

Yes, we are all getting the itch to ride, but in the bow valley the trails are still covered in snow. We have all been to the bike shops, looked at the new toys, and sadly, this is not the year for a new bike. So how do you get your bike fix, and have the old ride feel like new again? Time for the overhaul that you didn't do in the fall.

So start with removing the wheels, take off the cranks, and start cleaning. I'll let you in on a mechanics secret. Most of what we do is cleaning stuff. By cleaning it, we touch all the parts and see if things are damaged, or loose, and can then repair that. Cleaning takes over ½ the time too. The basic idea is take it apart, clean it, lube it, and put it back together. Learn that and you are on the way to become a bike repair ninja...

With the wheels off the bike, check that the hubs still feel smooth when you spin the wheel. No side to side play, and no grinding feel. Also check that all the spokes feel the same for tension. Heres a hint. Spin the wheel and just lightly tape the spokes as they go by, they should all sound the same. Any variation, and the spoke tension is too high or low. Get a shop to check it out if you dont know how to, or dont have the tools to true a wheel. Check that the rotors are still straight, you can bend them in, or out a bit, and if you can't get them right, just replace them.

Check the tires for wear too. When your tire is 50% worn, you have lost 80% of your tread. This is what gives you traction for the way up, but also braking power for the way down. If you are not sure, look at the sides of tread. That is how deep the tread should be. Odds are you should do this once a year at least.

Speaking of stopping, check your brake pads for thickness. CAREFULY push the pads out with a large flat bladed screwdriver, or metal tire lever, and then you should be able to remove them. Some just pop out, some you need to remove a screw/bolt that holds them in. The pads should have even wear, and be at least 2mm thick. Any less and just replace them, and if the old pads have more then 1mm, keep as a back up. If your brakes have not been bleed in 2 years do that too (or get a shop to if you are not sure how too)

So now check the front end, make sure the headset feels smooth when you turn it side to side, and then remove the fork and check that the bearings are full of lube. If it is a cartridge bearing, just replace it (auto supply places are great to help you). Check the grips too, Are they worn out? Do they slip on the bars? Replace with a loc on type grip. Lots of diameters, densitys, and shapes are avail.

Now for shifting. If you didn't do it last year, just assume that you need a new chain, and new cable and housing. For most riders (not racers) 1-2 times a year is about right. They are cheap to do, and make the bike feel like new. Park tools makes a chain checker to see how much the chain is worn, that works great on 8,9,10 speed and mountain and road bikes. I like to use a full length cable and housing as it allows less dust and mud to get into the cable. Clean and lube your clipless pedals too, or replace broken pins on your flats too. Clean the chain rings, and check for missing teath, or worn rings, and check that the bottom bracket still spins nice and smooth. Most of the new BB's need replacing once a year too, and sometimes have replacable, or re-packable bearings.

If the fork, or rear shock has not been done in over 2 years, get that done too. Again shops can help you make the fork feel like new. $50 - $200 for this service, depending on parts. Sometimes they can custom tune them for you if you want stiffer or softer, or more dampining.

So that is about it for an overhaul, go play with your bike, and learn about it, tune it up and love it