bike tunes, every 1000km..
Originally posted by "dave in banff" on the old Athletic Progression forum.
So, every 1000 km's
Wheels:
New tires, rear for sure. When 50% of the tires tread is gone, you have lost 80% of the traction. If the front tire looks OK, then maybe just swap front to rear. If you are running tubeless check the sidewalls for cracks, and weak spots. Add a bit more stans fluid too.
Hubs/spokes: check the spoke tension, Dont worry about the exact tension, but they should all feel, and sound about the same.
Rims: check for cracks/flat spots, and wobbles, If they are out of true, get them fixed. It makes for a weak wheel, and walking out of the backcountry, or in a race sucks.
Hubs: should both are spinning smooth. Also on the rear wheel, check the freehub body, (what makes the bike pedal AND coast) might need to be cleaned and re-lubed. Some mavic ones needed 2 overhauls during the transrockies alone
Drive train:
Chain: yes, swap the chain only, before it is 100% worn, and you dont have to put on a new cassette and rings. I go thru 1-2 chains a year, and I'm still on the orriginal cassette, and one set of rings (4 year old bike, 1000-1500km/year)
Cassette: check that the teeth, on all 9 gears, are not overly worn, and not bent. Same with the front chainrings:
Bottom bracket: Some of the newer external ones wear out fast. Like 1-2 a year for me, so check and replace them as needed. This is a HUGE source of drag on the system. Some of the hope/chris king are re-packable, and have a 5-10 year warranty, so you are just buying them once.
Brakes
Pads: check them. If you have been in mud, or dust (or both, or the transrockies) odds are they will be done. Pads start with 3-4mm, and usually will be gone in 1000km. Any less then 1mm and throw them out. A brake bleed is nice to get that crisp feeling back, and most bleed kits are avail for $30-50. Fluid is cheap (DOT or LIGHT mineral oil). Also the pads might be wearing evenly, so one side might be worn out sooner. replace the pads, bleed the brake, and see if that is better.
Rotors: check for bends: This can be from overheating, crashing, etc, and for deep grooves. If they are grooved alot, replace too, as they will wear out the pads faster.
Shifting:
cable and housing: see my last post. do full lenght, in the straightest line from bar to derailer. Zip tie them to the frame, and a dab of silicon glue at the end to help keep the dust and grime out. Also you dont have to cross them in front of the handlebars. See what works better on your bike. Just leave them long enough to crash, and have the bars spin.
Rear derailer: check pullies for wear, and friction, and get the hanger straightened. Lube all the pullies (jocky wheels) too.
Suspension: Check the air pressure, rebound, etc on the fork and shock. On an average ride, once per ride, you should bottom them both out. You paid for that much travel, you should use it. Check the pivot bolts, and the shock bushing too. Just tighten them all, and make sure they dont have play
Fork: check that the headset spins smooth, and that it isn't too tight or too loose. Once a year it is great to change out the oil in the fork too. It gets old and sticky to.
So ya, this is a 1000km list. sure it might be once a month for some of you SMRT people, but remember that "public" rides 1000km in 2-3 years, so it is not that unreasonable really. Think of how much you have spent on the bike, race entries, travel time, divorces etc, and either doing this yourself, or getting your favorite wrench to do it for you. Most of this work is fine for a home based person.
If you are not sure about something park tools has a great web site, or post on this site, or email me (dave@fatskideals.com) If you are really stumped, take it appart, clean it, lube it, and put it back together. Odds are it will work better...
have fun
dave
